Round and round we go

Day Total: 93 Km

Avg. HR: 131bpm

Avg. Speed: No idea a I messed up the computer settings today

Song of the Day: I Love Rock and Roll – Joan Jett

 
Sleeping in the middle of the desert is usually uneventful I would expect. OK, so we had a sandstorm, and it has been cold, but really, the absence of anything in the area should mean little to anything of interest ever happens. This night started the same, other than the incessant coughing of ~8 fellow riders who are being plagued by a pestulent respiratory infection sweeping through the group (my Dad being one of those particularly hard hit). Thus was my surprise when at ~4am there was a loud roar of an engine downshifting, the squeal of tires executing a serious steering and braking maneuver and the inevitable crunch and crash of car body hitting the metal barricade of the police checkpoint. This really should be no surprise mind you: it was completely dark, there are no signs indicating said checkpoint, and no temporary marking by the police to indicate that one should be prepared to stop. There were a few mumbled shouts, but beyond that, all seemed to be forgiven. I really did expect that Canadian Matthew was somehow involved but he denies any culpability.

A palpable energy was racing through the camp on this morning as people prepped themselves for a short ride into Luxor and our first rest day. Having ridden easier the previous day, I must say, I felt pretty fresh from the start. However, with some developing tendonitis in my left ankle I decided to lay off the tempo a touch for one more day and bit my lip as the “fast group” rolled by. I rode with a whole different group of people for the first half of the day as we rolled along a medium-sized canal. We rolled through small towns and open countryside to the hearty cheers of any child within earshot. Many of them woudl run to the side of the road or the edge of the canal to get a better look and shout words of encouragement in a language I couldn’t understand.

The land was spotted with villages of various sizes on the far shore of the canal. Access to each of them was gained by crossing a bridge over the canal and each bridge was accompanied by a road blockade of metal barriers to slow traffic on the main road. If you were to turn right off of the main road to cross one of these bridges, you would be met by a man in a robe holding a rifle. I’m not entirely sure why, but I find people in local garb with firearms to be much more frightening that uniformed millitary personel. Maybe it’s just me?

Lunch was the standard fare, but this time a number of locals cautiously approached the lunch truck. Having to relieve myself, I headed behdin the truck and was greeted by tentative “hellos” and soft smiles. I broke out some gummy bears to share with the children, but many were too afraid to accept my offer. One local – a heavier, older woman – showed no fear and grabbed all I had. I guessed there must be some kind of pecking order or something. All the fun quickly ended when one of our security detail (the one with the stupid looking machine gun on his hip) strolled over and shouted at them. I didn’t really get it because I’m 99% sure that the children weren’t carrying weapons and that the older woman – though clearly cuckoo for gummy bears – did not have a bazooka under her dress. The guy really ruined an otherwise memorable moment.

After lunch the terrain remained the same as the road followed the canal. My arm eventually tired as I waved to 300+ children en route to Luxor. A few got a bit surly, smacking the two riders behind me with palm fronds. I was later hit in the leg with a rock, but I feel that was very much the exception on the day. I rode with 2 others for a while, but finally one was too tired to keep up and the other was too tired to ever ride in front. Thus, I mostly rode alone for the remaining 55km to Luxor and it was good to just set a pace and stick to it. As we got closer to town, my tranquility was abruptly interrupted by two cars trying to turn right into the same space. I laughed out loud when a police vehcile that was only two cars back immediately turned on its siren in response to the chaos.

Up and over a bridge, through a roundabout, and we rolled into our rest day hotel/camp. The hotel is fairly low end, but it has an open, communal dirt patch perfect for pitching tents. I spent the afternoon washing clothes and sorting gear as we have access to our secondary bags for the first time in a week. Paul and I decided to share a hotel room. Normally I would bunk with my dad, however, he is battling a nasty respiratory infection and I wasn’t sure I could sleep with him coughing so much. He was understanding.

We wandered the streets of Luxor, visited the Luxor temple and its accompanying mosque, meandered the labryinth-like side streets of the market, and ate and ate and ate. Then I bought a camel hide belt. Day turned into evening as we countinued walking and taking it all in. We had two different “guides” following us around and showing us where to eat, then sitting and watching us eat, then following us some more. It was a bit over the top, but they were nice enough – until we didn’t want to buy anything. Then one of them tried to pick my pocket, and both kept complaining about how they “spent so much time with us”. We responded by simply saying “that was your choice” and walking back to the hotel. I’ve got some great pictures that I’ll process tomorrow to share.

We have made arrangements to visit some of the historical sites tomorrow. It’s a bit of a loose arrangement with a guy who introduced himself to us while we were wandering the Luxor temple so we shall see…